Italia

Hey all,

Just a quick update to let you know I am alive and well on mainland Italy after a week or so of Island hopping through the Tuscan Islands with no internet access (or showers). We survived one of the craziest storms of the season where the coastguard recorded winds of 70knots and hail pelted the boat which was luckily tied up tight to a mooring! I'll post a more comprehensive update when I have the photos loaded and a more reliable internet connection.

Cheers,

Matt.

Leaving Calvi… eventually!

On Friday afternoon we departed Calvi, planning to anchor overnight in a small cove up the coast before arriving in lively St Florent for Saturday night drinks. However, two hours and 5 nautical miles into the sail from Calvi, we realised it wasn’t Friday at all, it was Saturday! What to do, what to do? Well, after a little persuasion on my behalf, we did the inevitable thing three guys on a boat in the middle of the Med would do - we turned right back around and sailed into Calvi for the night! We knew there’d be a party there because we were amazed how loud the music was coming from the bars the evening before (which we thought was a Thursday). So after enjoying a brief deodorant shower we hit the bars, and enjoyed a spectacle unlike any other – Simo attempting to pick up in French! Priceless! I won’t go into detail, but lets just say for Ben and I it was pure entertainment! Following the complete and utter failure with the local (and extremely beautiful) ladies, we decided to head for familiar territory and order a Kebab from a local street-side store. However, French kebabs are apparently a little different to our Turkish influenced late-night jems – they take a huge bread roll, coat it in Mayonnaise, add diced chicken marinated in pepper and mayonnaise, add French fries, then top it with mayonnaise (and tomato sauce if there’s not enough flavour for you)!

A little worse for ware in the morning, we departed Calvi for the second time in much more favourable winds for a secluded little beach 10 miles to the north-west. It was so secluded in fact that the majority of bathers, who had trekked down from their cars parked along the cliff-top highway, decided to bath naked. We didn’t indulge, and instead enjoyed a few beers and another spectacular Mediterranean sunset. In the morning we went for a quick snorkel in water with 20+ metres of visibility (though a disappointing amount of fish) and hiked past the myriad of nudists up a nearby rocky hilltop. After a 45-minute scramble up the steep slope we summated and were afforded magnificent views down the coast from which we had sailed. Our boat anchored peacefully below in the glassy turquoise water was the only one in sight!

With only a slight breath of wind, and temperatures reaching an energy sapping 35 degrees, we motored around the next headland in the late afternoon for only a couple of miles before spotting a small isolated beach, devoid of any hilltop highway - and therefore hopefully nudists – to enjoy a relaxing swim and a bit of dinner. Our only company was a small boat anchored off the headland and a canoe pulled up on the beach. Who would have guessed that the canoe belonged to an elderly couple who were sailing around Corsica completely nude? We certainly didn’t and got quite a surprise after snorkelling up onto the beach and coming face to face (well sort of) with them in all their glory. After that we stayed out of their way, and they left us to enjoy a beautiful shepherds pie, a couple of glasses of wine and a night sky full of more stars than I have seen in a long time. I’d have to say it was the most relaxing night so far on the trip (and that’s saying something).

Corsica

Gday all from Cosica!

After an 18-hour overnight sail, pushing through strong winds and extremely rough waters, we have landed in Calvi, Corsica, 90 nautical miles southeast of the French/Italy border. Thanks to a big night before, where we reunited with our Swedish friends from Nice, the 18 hour journey left us all, especially me, feeling a little beaten and battered! The competing swells through the boat around as we charged through 25-30 knot headwinds. However, the real problems arose when the wind completely died at around 2am leaving us bobbing violently in the residual waves in the middle of the ocean, 50 miles from mainland France. Sleeping (of which there was little) involved strapping yourself in to the lifelines to avoid being tossed overboard. Going into the cabin was a risky venture, which meant I endured the majority of night in the surprisingly cold cockpit (I wore my ski jacket and beanie), subject to the wind and driving spray. During my sleepy shifts at the wheel, I began to hear and see things, some of which are and are not there. For so long I swear I could hear people talking around me, when in fact I was the only one awake and we were the only vessel in sight! When I did actually see a pod of small dolphins accompanying the boat, visible under the light of the full moon, I had to convince myself for a full 5 minutes that I wasn’t delusional and making the whole thing up! All in all, simply put, it was a long night!

Ben after a long and rough night at sea

A couple of nights before we made the crossing to Corsica, we visited Monaco for a night (as we couldn’t afford to stay any longer). What a crazy place! The boats are massive, the people extremely well dressed, and the money freely flowing! It was funny getting off the boat in a crappy shirt, boardies and thongs, and walking through the streets to sign in with the capitainerie. The looks I got from the people walking around in expensive suits and formal dresses was priceless. In fact, it’s actually against the law in Monaco to walk around without a shirt or shoes on! During our stay we walked around in awe at the massive private boats (essentially ships) in the marina, watched the changing of the guards with the million other tourists, and visited the casino, where we felt a little out of place (once again) in jeans and a t-shirt. Certainly an experience!

Monaco

After Monaco, we decided to head for a couple of nights to San Remo, Italy, to base ourselves in a larger town with cheaper facilities while waiting for the right winds to head over to Corsica. It may also have had something to do with the Swedish girls we had met in Nice holidaying there - who can say?

Yep - life is tough!

Regardless, the decision to head over the border was certainly the right one! During our stay, we took a bus an hour inland to the mountains, where it is possible to ski in winter, to a place called Triora, famous for its well-documented executions of witches, as well as its stunning location and magnificent views. As we went up late in the day, the place was practically devoid of tourists (and locals), which made it amazing to walk around the ancient streets and take in the surrounding landscape! We also took in quite a bit of red wine, as we missed the bus back and had to wait an additional 4 hours for the next one. This was the start of the long night, of which I mentioned previously, resulting in the hangover endured throughout the duration of the sail to Corsica. Lesson learnt – don’t drink the night before an 18-hour sail in rough seas!

Triori

So after a long sleep this morning (I woke up at 5pm), I have had time to explore the beautiful town of Clavi, Corsica, where a citadel rises majestically above the houses and shops below, which are all surrounded by towering mountains, some of which still hold snow on their peaks. Tomorrow, we sail towards the northeaster tip of the Island, then head over through the Tuscan Islands to mainland Italy. Should be there by the end of the month.

Calvi, Corsica

Cheers,

Matt.

Nice

7/6/09

Bonjour from Nice, where the last 24 hours have been a crazy mix of highs and lows. The lows started off yesterday night when 30 knot winds battered the boat where we had anchored and a 1-metre swell forced us to pull in and reset the anchor twice at 1am, then again at 2am. Following the second time I reset the anchor, I smashed my ankle on the winch, which has resulted in a fair bit of swelling and a good deal of pain. Then, after a sleepless night, I went for a morning swim, put my newly purchased snorkel set on the side of the boat, where it fell off and sank in over 30 metres of water. Then finally to top it all off, we took a walk around a nearby Island where a massive seagull shat on me! Guess you've gotta laugh at that!

Then our luck changed. The wind picked up and we sailed in gusts over 40 knots to Nice where we hit a new Painkiller speed record of 12.4 knots, and made it more than 15 miles in less than 1.5 hours. The swell was huge – 3-4 metres – which was kind of scary, but exhilarating none the less. Upon reaching Nice we took a nap, had a shower, and were off to check out the nightlife. Then we found what we had been looking for, but weren’t sure existed– the French version of Troppo, Scubar and Ranch, all in one. Oh, and did I mention it was the Swedish national day? Lets just say Simo and I celebrated the occasion fittingly!

So today we are having a recovery day, lazing around enjoying baguettes and French cheese, reminiscing on the night that was, and getting ready to do it all again!

Au revoir!

Matt.

St Tropez

4/6/09

 

Quick update from St Tropez where it is a sunny 25 degrees with little wind – perfect for doing absolutely nothing. Today, after a short motor around a headland, where we were anchored overnight, we docked in St Tropez marina, where we took a brief stroll through the beautiful town (full oven even more beautiful women), then proceeded to lie in the sun, reading and sleeping for the next 6 hours. I feel like it’s becoming a bit of a cliché here on board to say; ‘life is tough’.

 

Yesterday was a fun day sailing from Bormes-les-Mimosas to an anchorage in a quiet cove just west of St Tropez. On the sail, we did a bit of fishing (unsuccessfully), relaxed to a bit of music, and even tried swimming next to the boat while it was sailing. It turns out you can’t swim faster than 2 knots – which I almost found out the hard way! After that episode, we let a rope drift out the back, which made it easier to climb back aboard if a gust of wind sent the boat shooting past you. It was amazing swimming in the bluest water I have ever seen in depths of over 400 metres. I also had a go of climbing up the mast to hoist an Australian flag once we’d anchored.

 

So all in all life continues to progress at an enjoyably slow pace. It’s amazing to think I’ve been on the boat for less than a week – it feels like forever! I was saying to Simo today I am beginning to hate him because I have realised that when I get off this boat nothing will compare to the amazing life here onboard. I’m pretty sure life can’t get much cruisier than this – but with almost a month still left onboard, I guess I’ll find out soon enough!

 

Matt.

Sailing the Med.

Bonjour!

So after a short flight to Marseille, and a somewhat confusing search through a 3000 yacht marina looking for ‘Painkiller’, I found Simo and spent my first night of many sipping a beer on the deck and enjoying life at sea. Currently we are anchored in Bormes-les-Mimosas, a beautiful little town in the French Riviera.

The last few days sailing have been somewhat strenuous. For example, this morning I woke up to crystal clear waters, anchored just off a deserted beach, and had take a swim in the waters around other yachts that were packed with depressingly beautiful females. Then while I was sunbaking, the wind changed slightly, forcing me to move from the shade to the port side of the boat. Then I fell asleep in the sun, coffee in hand, and when I woke up my coffee had cooled slightly. These kinds of frustrations occur on a daily basis…. life is tough!

But in all seriousness, the past few days have exceeded all my expectations of sailing in the Med. Around every headland is another white sandy beach, another picturesque cove, another quaint little town. We wake up every morning to the sound of the sea lapping against the boat, and soon enjoy a croissant and coffee while relaxing on the bow. Then we hit a consistent 5 knots cruising down the coast, chilling on the deck, enjoying the cool spray of the ocean, and arrive in the afternoon at another beautiful and unique place. I am even getting the hang of hoisting sails, tacking, and my favourite – pulling up the 40 metre anchor. This is seriously the life!

Tomorrow we head for Saint Tropez for a bit of nightlife, and hopefully to meet a few lovely French ladies, who appear to be lacking on our boat at the moment. Anyway I must go - I have to finish my beer, take a swim, and enjoy another Mediterranean sunset while strolling through another little town, followed by a few more beverages in a seaside bar. I don’t know how I’m going to endure another month of this…

Matt.

Scotland

29/ 5/09

Gday all!

So since my last sleepy blog entry from Edinburgh I have travelled north to Stirling, a beautiful little town in central Scotland, and up to Fort William and the stunning Scottish highlands. Currently I am sitting in Edinburgh Airport waiting for my flight south to meet Simo and Painkiller (the yacht) in Marseille.

Stirling was a truly beautiful little town! With a castle overlooking the main street, the majestic Wallace Monument, friendly locals, and the surrounding picturesque valley, it reminded me of Edinburgh, just without the masses of tourists. It had an old world charm, with the added extra of a thriving nightlife thanks to the local student population. On that note, I took a stroll around Stirling University, which I would have to conclude has the most beautiful campus grounds I have ever seen. It is set around a little lake, right up against the surrounding mountains, with rolling green hills where the student population were enjoying the rare sunshine to the sounds of a lone piper playing down along the waterside to an audience of inquisitive ducks and swans. Oh and did I mention the castle and golf course next to the student accommodation?

One of the additional points I should make about Stirling is the presence of an Australian bar (random!), which serves ‘outback brew’ alongside VB and Carlton Cold. However I didn’t come halfway across the world to drink Australian beers! I had a Fosters instead!

After a fun 24hrs in Stirling I took a bus North a few hours into the Scottish highlands to Fort William where the largest ‘mountain’ in the UK, Ben Nevis, resides. The region is simply stunning, with the bus winding through narrow valleys and beside raging rivers, dwarfed by the dramatic (although relatively small) mountains which rise abruptly from sea level to over 4,000ft. Simply put, it looks like another world. Although Fort William was disappointingly touristy, I took a hike away from the masses into nearby Glen Nevis, suggested to be the most beautiful glen in the country. While a number of hikers took the path beside the road, I trekked up to a higher, and much boggier, track where I was afforded magnificent views of the valley and the nearby Stealle Falls (the largest in the UK). Amazing!

So now I travel south to the much warmer Mediterranean climate where Simo, Painkiller, and the next chapter in my journey await. Until then, as they say here in Scotland, Cheerio!